Things to see in Siena, the city expression of “medieval civilisation”
For those who visit Siena, either because you’ve been intrigued by its ‘medieval charm’ which they have heard so much about – or because they remember when they found it among the school desks, studying the “Medieval Commune” age -, my recommendation of things to see in Siena, among squares, monuments, churches and fountains, remaining sure of not really missing anything worth seeing and, above all, of capturing the quintessence of a city that particularly stands out among the others in the central Italy, for the reasons you will read about below.
So here is the series of places I suggest:
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Piazza del Campo
If there is one image of Siena that is known throughout the world, it is the Piazza del Campo. This is the heart of the city and represents, together with the Palazzo Pubblico – which acts as its backdrop –, the pinnacle of Italian municipal civilisation due to the unique architectural synthesis achieved between the square and the government building. In addition to being the seat of institutional power, the square also contains some symbolic elements that refer to the political formation which governed the city between the 13th and 14th centuries. At that time, Siena was an independent republic and one of the most powerful cultural and political centres in Tuscany.
Every day, visitors from all over the world admire the beauty of this environment. The square is also famous for being the venue of the historic Palio race, which is held here twice a year. These dates are of great importance to the history of Siena and the Sienese people.
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Siena Cathedral
The Siena Cathedral is an important monument situated not very far from Piazza del Campo and is a symbol of the city’s rich history. Its Gothic refinement is evidence of Siena’s commercial and cultural contacts with the world beyond the Alps during the Middle Ages. The city also had the desire, never completely quelled, to rival the powerful Florence even with the grandeur and richness of the buildings that were built.
The first important edifice of the Siena Cathedral dates back to the end of the 12th century, when it was consecrated by the Sienese Pope Alexander III.
Today, it is a treasure trove of art and preserves masterpieces by great artists like Pinturicchio, Michelangelo, Donatello, and Bernini. It also bears evidence of the young Raphael’s presence to the Piccolomini Library.
One of the most notable features of the Siena Cathedral is its beautiful floor, which covers the entire perimeter of the church with its 56 large panels made using the marble inlay technique. The floor can be viewed in all its splendour from the end of June to the end of July and then again from the second half of August to the first half of October when it is uncovered to the public.
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Santa Maria della Scala Hospital
As we continue our search for must-see attractions in Siena, we turn away from the façade of the Duomo and set our gaze on what initially appears to be an imposing and austere structure with high brick walls. However, upon closer inspection, we discover the ancient Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala, which holds one of the most significant stories of care and hospitality.
Now converted into a museum, the complex is not only a vast collection of art that includes frescoes of the Pellegrinaio, but it also narrates the history of Siena through the essential activity of assistance. Moreover, the museum’s vast rooms allow visitors to immerse themselves in hidden passages that have remained concealed for centuries, where the first nucleus of the city developed during the Roman and medieval times. These passages constitute a place of powerful suggestion, thanks to their high long tunnels dug into the soft sandstone.
A visit to the Santa Maria della Scala Museum will allow you to uncover the hidden Siena outside the Piazza del Duomo, offering an authentic journey through time.
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Pinacoteca di Siena
Still located in the upper district in Siena (Terzo di Città), the Pinacoteca nazionale (National Art Gallery) is housed in the medieval Palazzo Bonsignori. This art gallery is considered one of the most important centres of gold-backed paintings in the world and is home to some of the most famous masterpieces of Sienese Renaissance painting. The artworks displayed include pieces from renowned artists such as Duccio di Buoninsegna, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Simone Martini, Beccafumi, and Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, who is also known as Sodoma.
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Contrada Museum
As already said, Siena is a treasure trove of art and a significant example in Tuscany. However, to truly understand the city and its people, it’s essential to enter the Contrada, where Siena’s best-known tradition, the Palio, is intensely experienced. Siena has 17 districts, and Contrada is not merely a “group of flag-wavers” as one might think at a superficial glance. It’s something authentically felt by every Sienese citizen who is born, grows, lives, and dies in the district. It goes far beyond the race itself.
The Palio is an event with significant importance, and its antiquity makes it understandable (it is enough to mention the fact that, unlike other Italian ‘rides,’ which have been rediscovered or invented from scratch in recent decades, the Sienese race has been around since the Middle Ages almost uninterrupted up to the present day. However, to discover the entire world behind the tradition, one must enter a district and visit the museum. In the Contrada museum, for example, we can find the series of drappelloni (the actual Palio banner) won by each Contrada in the series of races in the last three hundred years, along with the historical costumes and objects dear to every contradaiolo (the contrada member). The times before and after the race, in which the sense of belonging to the community is strengthened and expressed in a series of activities, whether recreational or charitable, show the Contrada’s essence.
All this demonstrates a visceral passion that cannot be understood outside, making a visit to a district an essential experience to understand the spirit of an entire city.
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Le fonti medievali
It is said that during his visit to Siena in 1536, Emperor Charles V was amazed by the technical expertise of the city’s hydraulic engineers. He reportedly exclaimed that there were two cities in Siena: one on the surface and the other underground. This statement is true as there are many tunnels, called Bottini, dug into the soft sandstone beneath Siena, which carry water to the city’s fountains.
The fact that a city without any rivers has developed a sophisticated and complex water system demonstrates the virtuous efforts to seek supply solutions. The water system was not only created for utility but also for aesthetics.
Siena has many medieval fountains, some of which are imposing structures located in the historic centre and are visible for free. Fontebranda is located in the district of the same name and is worth a visit, as are Fonte Nuova, Fonte Ovile, Fonte di Pescaia, and Fonte di Follonica (the latter is located in the Leocorno territory; check the district’s opening days to visit).
One of the most elegant fountains is located in the very Piazza del Campo: the Fonte Gaia. Made by Jacopo della Quercia in the fifteenth century, the current fountain in the square is a nineteenth-century copy. However, there is an evocative place in Siena where the ancient fifteenth-century source is still preserved.
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Palazzo Pubblico
I am concluding the series of suggestions on things to see in Siena by returning to the square where I started. The medieval palace, called Palazzo Pubblico, is an excellent example of medieval civil architecture in Europe. It is today the seat of the municipality and the civic museum, and it preserves precious artistic testimonies of that municipal civilisation which I mentioned at the beginning. The ideological message of the works preserved there completes the significance of Siena’s culture.
Two particularly noteworthy masterpieces in the palace are Simone Martini’s Maestà, a painting which is an early testimony to the use of the vernacular in a public work, and the cycle of frescoes with the Effects of Good and Bad Government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, perhaps the most famous image of Sienese art in the world. The latter represents a picture of the Siena of the fourteenth century from multiple perspectives. The painter did not limit himself to representing the Siena of the time with verisimilitude, but also condensed political, philosophical, and theological meanings and figures in the cycle. Unfortunately, at the time of publication of this article, the frescoes are not yet visible due to an important restoration to which they are undergoing. We hope to be able to see the frescoes visible to the public again as soon as possible.
There are many other things to see in Siena besides the Palazzo Pubblico, such as the Botanical Garden, which is also very interesting and accessible free from Via Mattitoli, the Accademia Chigiana, or even the Basilica of San Domenico. If you have read this article, I imagine that you will have a great desire to visit the city and see with your own eyes what I have suggested in this list of things to see in Siena. If you want to discover all this with a guided tour, know that it is possible. Just contact me ⟢
